Just when I thought it was all over.
Oct29

Just when I thought it was all over.

We arrived in Santiago yesterday, with the usual long haul to be expected coming in through the outskirts of larger cities. Slightly disoriented we found ourselves the perfect small hotel bolt hole right in the middle of this ancient city. We even managed to sort our certificates out after hunting down the well hidden cathedral office. All that was left to do after good food and sleep was attend pilgrim's mass at midday today....

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Motorway life.
Oct21

Motorway life.

Well here we are. Only managed 20k today. Spent the latter half in a surreally steep wooded narrow gorge, abundantly beautiful. This was despite the random hunting shot gun explosions and the huge motorway that joined us. The motorway was like the background of a computer game. It was real, giant and stupendous but had nothing to do with us. It had no contact with us, we saw no vehicles as it was above our heads and only heard echoes...

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Back to the hills.
Oct20

Back to the hills.

Haven't posted since the lovely small city of Astorga, so here are some diary details. We left at 8 in the morning, sunrise is 8.36. Very quiet everywhere, with just the occasional ghostly pilgrim in the distance. Our peace was disturbed by an early morning troop of running club enthusiasts and four noisy late middle aged men in identical shiny smart track suits out for what I presume was a regular morning promenade. We generally...

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Poetic detail.
Oct17

Poetic detail.

My sister Sarah was a fan of the detailed observation of a lamp that Ellen made during our stay with the nuns in Leon. In the spirit of editorial collaboration I feel the need to replicate this level of poetic detail, but as I look up from my bed at the simple metal lamp hanging from the rose in the ceiling above my bed, I am overwhelmed by the shiny black satin knickers she has hanging and drying from one of its arms. Maybe I'll...

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Restored in Astorga.
Oct16

Restored in Astorga.

In the dark days of the Meseta, it was easy forget the camino. It had become a dusty barren trail, most of our compatriots had vanished and the food was just awful. We had forgotten about comradeship, the pilgrimage, food and views. This lingered into Leon, so we left early. Being in Astorga, the bad days have been forgotten. We realise lots of people have been ill or using wheels or both. We are becoming reunited, it feels like a...

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Dealing with the Meseta.
Oct15

Dealing with the Meseta.

This is officially a retrospective post, six days after having lost my mojo. Being ill saps the mind and body, so the will to write has been somewhat reduced. Dare I think it, the sap seems to be rising again, watch out Ellen. I really was pole axed for a night, day, night. Most orrifices kept me busy. However as with other things on the camino I discovered I was not alone. Mid grot I received a text from our pathfinder Edwina, saying...

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